Sleeve Add-On for the Pleated Top
A Free Add-On for the Pleated Top
With its origami-inspired pleating, the Pleated Top is one of our most-loved designs of Liz Haywood. We're delighted to share a free add-on that gives it sleeves, kindly created by Kana (@kaana.nuinui)!
The full look ↓
A closer look at the pocket ↓
Use It Together with the Original Pattern
The original Pleated Top pattern is sleeveless. This add-on lets you make elbow-length sleeves and side pockets.
- Don't have the original Pleated Top pattern yet? Get it here for the Japanese version , or head to Liz's Etsy store and find December Zine for the English version. then use it together with this add-on.
- Already have the Pleated Top pattern? This add-on is yours, free. Enjoy even more ways to wear your Pleated Top!
Size
- One size (fits sizes 34–42)
Before You Start
- The sleeveless original uses two side panels sewn together. This version uses a single side panel.
- The side panel sits lower than in the original design, so shorten it according to the diagram below.
- Includes 1 cm seam allowance.
Fabric Requirements
- 150 cm wide fabric: 2.8–3 m
- 110 cm wide fabric: 3.3–3.5 m
Templates
The following instructions involves drafting the whole layout from scratch. If you want to use templates to aid the drafting please download the real scale version, available in the A4 tiles and the rolled sheet versions.
Preparing the Side Panel
Following the original instructions, pleat the front and back bodices, make the back opening, and sew the shoulders (up to Step 11 on p. 14 of the Pleated Top instructions, Japanese edition).
Note: When sewing the shoulders, the original instructions have you fold in the angle 2.5 cm before the end. For the sleeved version, simply sew straight along the slanted line.
- Measure the bodice from shoulder to hem and subtract 21 cm . This is the length of your side panel.
- Adjust to your preferred length as needed, using the diagram below as a guide.
Cutting the Sleeves and Pockets
- Draft the sleeves and pockets as shown, then cut them out.
- Apply fusible interfacing to the opening of the outer pocket piece.
Making the Cuffs
- Draft and cut the cuffs as shown.
- If needed, apply fusible interfacing to the entire cuff.
- Construct the cuffs as shown in the diagram.
Making the Bias Tape
- Make bias tape from your leftover fabric and use it to finish the neckline (see Step 12 on p. 14 of the Pleated Top instructions).
- How to sew bias tape (opens Sae-sensei's Instagram Reel)
- How to make bias tape in bulk (opens Sae-sensei's Instagram Reel)
Sewing the Pockets
- Place the outer pocket and pocket lining right sides together, and sew the top and bottom edges.
- Clip the seam allowance along the curves and turn right side out.
- Topstitch along the pocket opening.
Attaching the Pockets to the Side Panel
- Position the pocket on the side panel, matching the grainline (roughly 20 cm / 8" below the underarm).
- Stitch the bottom of the pocket in place.
- Trim away any part of the pocket that extends past the side panel.
Attaching the Side Panel to the Bodice
- Place the side panel and the side edge of the front bodice right sides together, and sew.
- Serge the two seam allowances together and press them toward the bodice.
- In the same way, sew the other edge of the side panel to the side edge of the back bodice, right sides together, and serge.
Sewing the Sleeves
- Sew the center seam of the sleeve with a 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowance.
- Finish the seam allowances with a flat-felled seam, or press them open and fell each side.
- Divide the sleeve cap curve into quarters and mark each point with a notch.
- Sew long gathering stitches along the sleeve cap and the gathering area at the sleeve hem.
- Sew the underarm seam to form a tube.
- Serge the two seam allowances together and press them toward the front.
- Attach the cuff to the sleeve hem.
Shaping the Armholes
- Cut the armhole curve as shown below.
- Machine-baste the pleats so they stay in place.
- Mark notches at the shoulder point, the underarm, and the midpoint between them.
Setting In the Sleeves
- Pull up the gathers on the sleeve cap to fit the armhole.
- Match the notches and sew the sleeve into the armhole.
Finishing the Hem
- Finally, finish the hem, and your top is complete!
